Good Morning. A few years ago my friend and colleague Tejal Rao met a sous chef named Julia Goldberg in the vegetarian restaurant Superiority Burger in New York, where Goldberg then worked. Tejal had come to learn the secrets of one of Goldberg’s most elegant creations: A. vegan ranch dressing (top), “tangy and creamy”, Tejal wrote for The Times, “Turbocharger with the familiar, stunning umami of a bottled ranch.”
Of course, the vegan ranch must not contain buttermilk or mayonnaise, the traditional basis of the dressing. In Goldberg’s version, tahini, lemon juice, maple syrup and a large amount of chopped parsley, dill and chives were used instead. It’s quite a phenomenal dressing when used on grilled Romaine, as Tejal suggested. It also goes well with fried potatoes, chicken wings or a lamb chop under the grill. But I loved it most as a burger spice whether this patty is made of it beef or Mushrooms and beets.
Don’t you wanna go vegan ranch tonight to give yourself a little bit of joy when the joy is so thin? Aren’t you going to make it because it’s weird and crazy and tasty at a time when these things could actually bring relief? Vegan ranch dressing on a burger! Charlie Chaplin in “modern times. ”
(Don’t you feel it? Here’s a fine Fried salmon with toasted sesame coleslaw, by Kay Chun.)
On Monday you could steer in nostalgia, make this recipe for an elegant one THUN macaroni salad that Amanda Hesser adapted from the Clementine restaurant in Los Angeles a million years ago.
For eating on Tuesday Vichyssoise against the summer heat. (If you are working from home, or at home during the day, prepare the soup for lunch so that it cools well before dinner in the refrigerator.)
A baked spinach artichoke noodles on Wednesday evening? Yes, please.
I think on Thursday you could try Florence Fabricant’s nice recipe Marseille-style risotto, that is, with the aromas of bouillabaisse. (Really!)
Then on Friday another fantastic relapse from an article by Francis Lam from 2015 about the secrets of Manhattan’s curry series, on East Sixth Street: at home Bangladeshi Chicken KormaCourtesy of Shama Mubdi, whose husband owned restaurants there.
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Well, it has nothing to do with split peas or harissa, and I know I mentioned it before, but if you haven’t clicked before, you should now: A.O. Scotts “The essential spike Lee, “At the time.
Have you ever read Breece D’J Pancake? Here is his short story “Trilobites, ”From 1977.
To join Raymond Pettibon in the studioCourtesy of David Zwirner.
Finally, cartoonist George Booth’s birthday. He is 94 years old an old profile of him in The New Yorker if you’re interested. And if so, you may also want to find a copy of “The Essential George Booth”. I’ll be back on Monday.