Good Morning. My friend Kirsch was on the phone and said how it got to the point where she just wanted to make a large amount of a spice and use it all the time. Anchovies compound butterfor example, sprinkle on toast in the morning and eat with eggs; then to foam as an asparagus bath at night; dab on potatoes; eat on toast again in the morning, again with eggs.
I laughed. The time has come for me too. I’m just talking about Francis Lam’s recipe for caramelized spring onion sauce: for pasta; for grilled vegetables; for strange burrito situations; for pretty much any excuse to eat the sauce. I put these cucumbers every lunch I do.
It’s not a spice, but I’ve also eaten a lot of tofu lately, mostly because I love this recipe from Yewande Komolafe so much baked tofu with peanut sauce and coconut-lime rice. It has become one of those dishes that, when served in a restaurant I’ve been to regularly, is my standard order. I think that’s the way of the pandemic when so many of us are crammed in at home. We fall into delicious furrows. I do the dish a lot.
But now Yewande is back with a new tofu recipe, e.g. crispy tofu and cashews with peas (above), and it can push the peanut sauce out of its track. It has such a kind with textures and aromas: the tofu soft under its crust, the crunching of the nuts and peas, the interplay between the coconut milk in the sauce, the molasses, the rice vinegar, the ginger. It’s a stew that comes together in 30 minutes to serve over rice, absolutely showered in mint, and I think you should make it tonight or one night very soon. I bet you will prepare this dish a lot.
Even more delicious: I made this recipe from Mark Bittman for Pasta puttanesca a lot, in a tight cube of soppressata instead of the anchovies, mashed tomatoes instead of the whole and then cook the pasta in the sauce with a cup of chicken broth, oh man.
I was Grill ribs weekly. Taco night is real. And have you already climbed on board the Dutch baby carriage? Start with Melissa Clarks savory version with camembert and baconand you have a new weekly tradition – at least until you move on to the next one.
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Well, it has nothing to do with cake or beer, but this powerful comment by Caroline Randall Williams recently ran in The Times and is absolutely worth reading: “Do you want a Confederate Monument? My body is a Confederate monument. ”